
From Ian Dunbar, PhD, BVetMed, MRCVS
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From Ian Dunbar, PhD, BVetMed, MRCVS
Katherine Heigl never set out to become a crusader. The actress, known for Grey’s Anatomy and films like 27 Dresses and Life As We Know It, simply fell hard for a dog—and that love cascaded into something far bigger than she expected.
It started with Hudson, a German Shepherd whose rescue sparked a domino effect. Heigl and her family began adopting in earnest, and soon their home overflowed with second-chance animals. What began as one soft-hearted decision became a full-blown mission.
These days Heigl’s pack—pups like Jenny and Gus among them—keeps her tethered to what matters. She’ll tell you flatly that the rescue dogs saved her as much as she saved them, and that’s the part of the story she most wants the world to hear.
Dog fights happen between all dogs, but most often between male dogs under two. Most people assume one is a dominant bully and the other a hapless victim, but usually both are under-socialized and short on confidence and social skill. Often the two lock eyes and tension builds as each is wound up by the other’s reactivity. The resulting scuffle is noisy and drawn-out, yet few need a vet visit. The dogs are reactive, not dangerous—because as puppies they learned bite inhibition and how to settle differences via the Dogberry Rules of Fighting: only biting neck-forward (scruff, soft neck, muzzle, head, ears) and never breaking skin. Learning bite inhibition and socially acceptable fighting patterns is the single best reason for off-leash puppy and adolescent classes.

The safest, most effective way to break up a dog fight is to push a ‘pig board’—a 36” x 30” sheet of plywood with a handle on top—between the two dogs. Every dog park, boarding, and daycare facility should keep one handy. Absolutely do not try to separate them with your hands or feet. Even if dogs have good bite inhibition with each other, they may not have enough toward people, depending on how much they played with humans as pups.

The usual park procedure is for as many people as possible to rush in and circle the dogs (to stop others joining), shouting “Sit! Sit! Sit!” and praising the moment they stop. (A better move is the pig board above.)
Breaking up fights is never risk-free for people, so the best plan is to never let your dog fight. Prevent the urge by thoroughly socializing him through puppyhood, adolescence, and adulthood. Routinely condition him to enjoy being near other dogs. Never let him eyeball, lunge at, or bark at other dogs—simply ask for sit, quiet, and eye contact. Three basic commands—Sit, Shush, and Watch Me—go a long way to keep him out of trouble. If he sits and shushes, he can’t bark and lunge; if he watches you, he can’t lock eyes and amp the other dog up. Better still, a sitting dog looking at you radiates calm confidence—a dog with a more important mission (you) than the growly nonsense nearby. You’re training him to act like a true Top Dog. Calm, confident dogs are rarely picked on; insecure, under-socialized ones are bait. My wife teaches dogs to Watch and Wag under pressure—focus on her and wag. It’s surprisingly hard for another dog to start a fight with a wagging rear. More tips at dogstardaily.com/training/adult-dog-training-2-years.
Thank you, Dr. Ian, for the tips on handling dog fights in the park. Has this happened to you? Share your story in the comments!
Dr. Ian Dunbar is a veterinarian, animal behaviourist, dog trainer, and author of several books and DVDs. He founded the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (apdt.com) and co-created dogSTARdaily.com, a daily magazine for dog owners.
Keep sessions short and always end on a success your dog is proud of.
Hold one treat at your dog's nose level and let the smell do the talking.
Say the cue once, clearly, in a happy voice - then wait.
The instant the wanted behavior happens, mark it with a cheerful Yes!
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